I found this is my travel blog from Chile-talk about a great time! I hope you enjoy it as much as I did, whether it's the first or fifty-first time.
Let me start by thanking everyone that was kind enough to remember my
birthday. It was an unforgettable event in an incredible locale. I woke
up at 5 AM, which is 4 AM by my body clock, on Thursday, April 10th
(Happy Birthday, Diane!) to get to the bus station in time for my 6:30
departure. Despite the early arrival of my cab, there were a few
moments of tension trying to figure out how to unlock the front door
from the inside. In the dark. Without waking up my housemate and la
tia, both sleeping in their bedrooms a few feet away. After digging out
my house key and discovering the flashlight feature on my cell phone, I
made it, and the most difficult part of my adventure was past.
The bus to Puerto Montt was perfect for sleeping, though I did
lamentably lose my week-old crochet hook to the Land of Renegade
Objects That Disappear Without Reason or Notice. It fell to the clean,
dry floor, which was devoid of unidentifiable scum, and was neither
seen nor heard from again. I don't think that FARC has operatives this
far south, but I know they are quite interested in their crochet hooks.
Alas, I can only hope that mine has gone on to a better home. Chances
are, I'll splurge and spend the ~$1.75 USD for a new one.
Not that any of this is something you actually want and/or need to
hear about CHILOE, pretty much the best darndest island I've ever
visited! Katie, my travel-companion, and I bought tickets from Puerto
Montt to Ancud. (The stray dogs in Puerto Montt are neither loved nor
well fed. Quite depressing.) Our bus arrived, and off we went to the
island of Chiloe, more specifically, to Ancud, probably the
second-largest city of the island. Along for the ride was the first
beautiful Frenchman to make our acquaintance, and anonymous young
traveler spending a few months going hither and non across the
Americas. He was beautiful blonde and hazel-eyed, a Parisian who spoke,
get this: French. (No way! Never would have guessed it, right?) He
totally floored us by putting on, of all things, a baseball cap, which
apparently didn't fit his rugged Columbia/North Face traveler image.
Beautiful specimen, though. I certainly didn't mind. (If I have to
suffer the negative effects of machismo occasionally, I'm gonna
objectify right back!)
When we got to the beach, our bus drove straight onto a ferry.
Katie and I got up and wandered out to take pictures and look around.
Beautiful day, despite the forecast for rain: sunny, a little chilly on
the water. As amazing as everything else was, the highlight of the
crossing was by far the seals that came out to play and eat the fish
that are agitated by the ferry. At first Katie and I had no idea what
we were seeing, but eventually we figured out that yes, those shiny
brown things were probably mammals, and that they were far too small to
be lobos marinos (sea lions).
ANCUD
When we landed in Ancud, the two of us found a cheap hospedaje with
warm water near the bus station and set off to find some grub. We
stopped in at Chilote Menos, which turned out to have the best
hambuerguesa simple this side of heaven, and super-strong,
super-overpriced drinks. If you happen to stroll across Ancud by chance
and have the sudden urge to have a cheap, hearty meal sans seafood,
your best bet would be Chilote Menos. Remember to add the honey-mustard
sitting at your table to the burger; it's the deal-breaker.
That afternoon we explored the local museum, which had some
horror-provoking images of the aftermath of the earthquake that ripped
the region to pieces a few decades past. (The same as the 1960 that hit
Valdivia? Probably. It was a 9.8 or something on the Richter scale.) In
the eventide, Sonya joined us and we went out for wine and hot
chocolate at el Retro Pub. Nice atmosphere, way overpriced for food.
(Meaning $10 USD. I've become rather stingy.) The company was its
selling point.
The next morning, we woke up to my birthday. Despite my cold, I was
ready to go. Anything and everything, I wanted to do it! You only turn
twenty-one once, and though it's a nondescript birthday by most
standards, in the States this is THE birthday. I wanted to make it
memorable. We started off by taking a walk to the old fort in Ancud. En
route, we accumulated six dogs, a veritable pack, and had an
early-morning doggone birthday party! They followed us until we got
onto enemy territory, and which point we lost all but our most
stout-of-heart troops. For their bravery, we gave them our hearts and
awarded them the names Chaco (-Chaco Chip!) and Hank. They assisted us
in our admiration of the old fort and picture-taking, as well as in our
climb down the hill to the beach just below. (Steep hills are strategic
defensive advantages, you know.) At the beach, we discovered that Chaco
was, in fact, female, when she was accosted THRICE by a horrible
short-haired stray. Just because she was hanging out with the girls
from the States didn't mean that she was a stereotypical northern
floozy! (Nor were/are we, for that matter.) Poor girl came with us and
Hank, a gentleman at his best, while we collected huge chunks of sea
glass and shells, the best souvenirs nature has to offer. We discovered
a cave that's only accessible at low tide, which it was, and got our
feet wet in some Pacific Ocean in our walk back along the rocks to
where we'd originally picked up our quadrupedal companions. At that
point, we had to unfortunately part ways, as we three wandered into the
artisinal market. Sonya picked up a book on Chiloean mythology, which
is unique to the island. Katie looked at hats and I wanted everything
in general, but we decided to move on to lunch at El Cangrejo, where
each of us ordered dubious-looking shellfish in various forms. (I got
the paila/paina marina, which was easier to down after I bludgeoned all
the meat into unidentifiable smithereens. The broth was amazing.) Then
we got our bags from the hospedaje, made our way to the bus station,
and bought tickets to go south, bypassing Castro for its smaller
neighbor, Chonchi.
CHONCHI
Our decision to hit up this po-dunk little nowhere was based on a
few sentences' worth of information in my Lonely Planet travel guide.
Word was out that a quaint hospedaje there was worth the effort, owned
by a Canadian expat. I was doubtful, but convinced enough to go. So we
wouldn't be able to find a night club in which to dance away my
birthday. We could still find a bottle of wine somewhere, right? And
how! We got to Chonchi, lugged our bags into the municipal building,
and rather surprised the tourism-coordinator by asking tourist
information. He was friendly, gave us the directions, and off we went.
We found the hospedaje in question, which was situated ON THE WATER.
Not just with a view, but a VIEW. Just past the white picket fence was
beach, and at high tide sometimes the water would come right up to the
pickets. We went in, asked a few questions, and decided to bunker down
for the night. First stop: the bakery right next to the grocery store,
where we purchased delicious manjar birthday cookies. Second stop:
grocery store, for dinner, breakfast, and booze. All were available at
a more than reasonable price. (We also wandered out onto the dock where
the large fishing boats come in, had some locals giving us the eye,
which is to be expected when you wander around with two tall blonds.)
Amidst one vibrant, tangerine sunset and an awesome group of teenager
break-dancers showing off their stuff, we wandered back to the
hospedaje and got to work celebrating with spaghetti, empanadas, red
wine and pisco, and the requisite nutbowl. This all took place in the
common kitchen, where we met the other travelers du jour: a Canadian, a
Brit, and two more beautiful Frenchmen. They were very kind to put up
with us, especially as Sonya and I started dancing around the kitchen,
singing along to Moulin Rouge and Disney. That night we wiggled into a
double bed together, because sans heating it was COLD, and stayed up
giggling as we listened to the Frenchman one thin wall away talking.
Though we didn't speak French, they knew English, and Sonya's claim
that "I want to tell them that they are pretty" sent all five of us
into hysterics for quite some time.
NOTE: If you read this blog and decide to run across Hospedaje
Esmeralda, be warned that if the crazy old lady down the beach is still
living there and not yet in a psych ward, her dogs ARE aggressive.
Rocks are not cruel violence, they are necessary protection against the
veritable horde of canines. At Katie's count, she has THIRTEEN.
Self-preservation is recommended.
The next day, our last full day in Chile, we decided to take the
free ferry over to the neighboring island of Lumay. The Canadian owner
kindly drew us a map, which we followed doubtfully but faithfully
across 4 kilometers (2.4 miles) of steeply rolling hills. (Add
whine-ully, on my part.) We stopped in at a cafe for liquids (coffee,
soda, juice) and took the ferry. Lumay, it turns out, is gorgeous, but
the sites that our host recommended to us were literally miles away.
("Two to three hour loop" my big white fanny.) Finally we called it
quits and went back to the restaurant at the beach to wait for the
ferry. We ordered Curancho -think a Hawaiian pig barbeque bit with
shellfish instead- and promptly ate it all. The place didn't have a
name, could very well have been the only restaurant on the island, but
they had the best tomato spread EVER. When the ferry arrived, we got
on, along with one car, and sat down on the metal floor for the ride
back across. Very intelligently getting transportation back to Chonchi,
we didn't have to suffer the 2.4 mile trek again, and got back in time
to relax, go to dinner, and attend the impromptu party that night.
The Canadian traveler had left, but in his stead we were graced by
the presence of an American volunteer taking some time off to travel a
bit, and two Swiss, one of Spanish descent but born and raised in the
neutral state, the other a full-bred Swiss...I think. It's ironic, to
say the least, that I was told just the day before by the hospedaje's
owner that he likes to ask his guests where they come from so that he
knows how he can speak with them and that he mentioned particularly
that one must be careful with a Swiss in the room. Apparently, for all
their chocolate and neutrality, they aren't a very easy-going people.
Too serious. I heard this and brushed it aside as unfair bias, sure
that it was a difference in perspective or close-mindedness on his
part. Then, despite all my intentions to remain impartial and never
judge a people by one representative, I found myself in a situation in
which I had to believe what he had said, at least in regard to this one
man. Sitting at the table, sharing stories and listening to others
(when the four men didn't inevitably switch into French) I got called
to task by one of the Swiss men for liking Avril Lavigne. (Yes, I do,
in fact, appreciate some of her music. It's fun.) At first I argued my
point right back, and then tried to brush it off as a difference of
opinion, but after ten minuted of vehement raking Avril through the
coal because her father is rich so she has nothing to complain about, I
was just about done. Sonya tried to help extricate me from the mess by
being the neutral party (Haha, Switzerland) and Flo, the Frenchmen who
had been in the conversation before this mess, smiled and played with
the music on his laptop. I don't remember how the situation finally
ended -maybe he got up to get a smoke?- but I laughed to myself to
think that every word I'd so scornfully dismissed had just been proven
true for the Swiss in question. NOTE: I do not think all Swiss are
unfunny, unhappy people based on this one occasion. I am sure they are
wonderful. Sweet. Neutral. This particular, singular, ONE Swissman was
not.
Sonya slept in our second room that night, but Katie and I still
snuggled for warmth. The next morning we left a note under the
Frenchmen's door, telling them that they were in fact beautiful.
(Really, they were.) Then we mysteriously disappeared into the late
morning on a bus marked "Valdivia" and never saw them again. Instead,
we went to the bus station, went home, and in my case, celebrated my
birthday one more time with birthday cake and some gift slippers. (Very
thoughtful since I'd fallen down the stairs in my socks a few days
prior.) And so, a weekend in Chiloe.
***I apologize for any typos. I'm not going to bother checking this. It's a looooong post, as I'm sure you noticed.***